There
was quite good breakfast on Rose Garden Guest House or Lodge, I forget but if
you are traveling you can ask anyone about the Rose Garden – I recommend this
teahouses on Philim for both lunch and dinner. There was one small police entry
post just next to Philim, where I show both documents I had, i.e. Permit and
Letter from Jagat. I don’t even need to speak a single word after showing a
letter they just note down the details and shout out “Have a nice journey”. Trail
pass through horizontal field where we had encounter several mules’ herds
passing by. Just on the next ridge next to Budi Gandaki I can see the village
of Pangsing, the place where I was heading yesterday through wrong trail on the
way to Philim. Now I think it would have been a good experience if we had
manage to reach there but it would be hilarious. Throughout the trail I was
looking for trail on next and just keep imagining where I would go and how I
could merge to correct trail from village of Pangsing but it looks like there
are no alternatives trail from Pangsing to this side of trail as it almost
looks and dead end. After some walk there came a small bridge from where trails
get separate, we just see the board that is printed with welcome word “Welcome
to Tsum Valley”. It is slight uphill from where we can see trail to Manaslu
passes through deep gorge next through the bank of Budi Gandaki into the
mysterious land. We arrive settlement of Lokpa with one single hotel and it was
way too early for lunch there so we decide to move ahead which was one biggest
mistake on trip. Trust me there was not even a single tap and local settlement
in between Lokpa and Chumling. Trail passes through lush green forest with
ridge line walking from where we can see a river flowing steep below toward the
Manaslu Region. Slowly we were loosing energy with steep up and down hill trail
toward Chumling. When we reach top of one ridge we always look for settlement
of Chumling or any other for some food but no way it used to be another steep
down into middle of no where again and eventually another steep uphill through
dense forest.
Tsum Valley - Colorful field with Chorten on the middle of field that is ruined by electrical pole :( |
To
be honest both of us finished more than 60 percent of sneakers and energy bar on
the trip from Philim to Chumling. Finally after on descend we reach a river
bank where there was two signboard one pointing toward Ripchet that state about
Two and Half Hour and another pointing toward Chumling something around forty
five minutes or something. Without thinking for a second we head toward
Chumling. It was slight uphill again and when trail turn into flat there was again
multiple ways on going straight and another going slight uphill. We can see
some Chorten and Mani Wall on uphill ridge so just use logic that Chorten
herald arrival of settlements and we took uphill ridge. We say some basic houses
and found one lodges on settlement. People were surprised to see us in the
village because there are some good guest houses on lower belt but mistakenly
we had choose uphill trail following sight of Chorten and Mani Wall. Teahouse
name was something like “Ganesh Himal View Lodge” or something. This one is
expensive in compare to its room and facility. Area was little bit dirty but
hospitability of owner is amazing. There was just a single owner whose families
were on Arughat and Kathmandu and about to return with in a couple of week. He
offered us delicious Dal Bhat. There was one small water tap near the lodges
something around two min walks. Paul and me we did some laundry stuffs there. There
was one small and very old monastery on the northern top ridge of teahouses
that looks like within five min walking we can reach there. It was collection
of some stone Chorten and piles of small stone that was carved with Tibetan
Prayers. Suddenly a small kid appears and he open door of monastery for us. Inside
there was one big prayer wheel. After that we descend down to settlement and ask
for some soups. Local owner offer pork soup with help of tin meat from Tibet that
was way to delicious for us on chilling weather. There was one big room with
four bed and enough blankets, it was kind of warm overnight for us with double
layer of blankets. After one more Dal Bhat we go for a sleep, just consult with
owner and he suggest us to have a lunch in Chekampar and overnight in Lama Gaon.
Before sleep we consult a map and plan to stay in Lama Gaon tomorrow cause it
looks feasible with time and elevation.
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